(article extracted from the ship’s magazine – written by R. A. S. Fields)
Karachi was our first glimpse of life in Pakistan, and it was soon obvious to everyone that here was the important gateway to this young country. Long Wharves were well-filled with merchant ships, and cranes busily emptied and filled holds. All ports are important pieces in the game of commerce, and Karachi was certainly no exception. Before stepping ashore it was already easily seen that expansion was the keynote, new jetties were under construction together with the banks of cranes needed to deal with an added flow of goods.
To get ashore is the aim of anyone visiting a foreign port, even if it is not the first visit. Once ashore there is no common factor. Each man has his own idea on just how a visit should be made. On this occasion, the scope of entertainment, whilst not unlimited, was definitely restricted by the high cost of living. There was one common problem to be solved, in the form of a four-mile journey to be made into the main part of the city. Transport appeared to be unlimited, not only in quantity but in method also. As the visitor’s foot first touches the soil in Pakistan he is likely to be met by three local gentlemen, each anxious to help him in his quest to see Karachi. Their ideas vary as to the best method of making the journey, which was understandable when one owned a taxi, another owned a horse-drawn gharri, and the third was the proud owner of a mechanised rickshaw. Confused, the visitor decided to walk at least as far as the gate. Very few make it. It appears, that having refused their assistance, the three gents now indulge in a "no holds barred" struggle for your custom, with you as the principal victim! Anyone surviving this duel of wits and high finance, is met at the gate by a veritable army of conveyances, and surrender is then inevitable. Having given your person into the hands of a scootershaw, which is by far the most economical and thrilling form of transport, there remains nothing to do but to sit tight and see Karachi.
There is no artificial, splendrous gateway to Pakistan. No tree-lined avenue leading into the city. The visitor is put under no illusion that "Everything in the garden is lovely." Within a very few minutes of leaving the ship he rides past squalid squatters’ shacks, a few boxes and some sacking by the roadside being their price for a divided country. I must mention in passing however, that a person arriving in Karachi by air is also brought into contact with such sights, as the main road from the airport passes large refugee settlements. At the time of the partition the population of Karachi was increased overnight, out of all proportion. Their overcrowding problem was made even more difficult by the fact that most of the refugees were literally penniless, having been unable to bring any Indian currency with them. This was the problem of ten years ago (Remember – this is December 1957) and it is still a problem today. Although much has already been done, there is still a large rehabilitation programme to be completed.
The approach to the first major built-up area is a well made road, and across an equally well-made bridge, which brings into view a large block of flats still under construction. This, and other house construction, being a constant reminder of the expansion programme that the local government has undertaken.
Once across the bridge, the driver of the "scootershaw" has the choice of two routes into the city centre. The choice is invariably made in favour of the road containing the most traffic. The only reason I can find for this is the local love of excitement. Unable to pay for commercial entertainment the driver satisfies himself by engaging in a continuous war of nerves with every other user of the road. The battle is made even more frightening by the fact that the vehicles are not allowed to use horns within the municipal area. A dagger-filled look, coupled with a stream of invectives are the main weapons used in gaining a favourable position in the fast flow of the traffic stream. A hardy traveller may have nerve enough to look away from the converging masses of vehicles and see the pedestrian world beyond. For the most part it is no different to any shopping district of the Eastern world. In the struggle to attract more custom, most of the shops seem to bring everything from inside the shop and put it on the pavements. This enables the housewife to do her shopping without ever having to leave the pavement. The small problem caused by a crowd of shoppers around an attractive display and completely disrupting all foot traffic, is apparently overlooked. Another aspect of a native shopping area is detected initially by the nose, but a quick glance around will generally reveal a roadside fire over which are pans of beans being subjected to heat treatment, similar to the roast chestnuts at home. It is unfortunate that the smell is not quite so appetising to the visitors nose.
Not all of the city’s shops follow the pattern that is initially seen, and it is most likely that the breathless passenger will obtain release from the "Scootershaw" in a very looking Western street. Here again the stranger is met by a sight with which it is difficult to be come accustomed – the large modern stores with the windows well stocked, having as neighbours perhaps a shack selling soft drinks and cigarettes. This contrast of prosperity and poverty is to be seen almost anywhere in the city, and could be taken as a constant reminder of the job that is yet to be done.
A store certain to attract attention is a large building fronted by a showroom full of products from behind the Iron Curtain. They are mainly mechanical products, but their wide range seems to invite the heading of "Anything you can do, we can do better". After strolling around the main streets, the visitor will probably still be looking for memento's within his budget. With this in mind, a trip into the backwaters may prove worthwhile. A couple of smart turns, and the brightly lit shops are replaced by small open-fronted wooden huts illuminated by an oil lamp, or in some cases by a naked electric light bulb. These are not only shops but workrooms as well, and in each can be seen a craftsman at work. Endowed with infinite patience, and working with simple tools that look inadequate, these men carve and inlay wood to the most intricate designs. With the large variety of wooden articles to be seen, it is easy to find one that will suit the smallest pocket.
After walking the dusty streets, a need for refreshment is the next urgent call and this may be answered at one of the many retaurants and hotels. In the world of liquid refreshment, the astronomical prices of the beer and spirits encourage teetotalism!
Thus refreshed the traveller can continue his wanderings or perhaps take the opportunity to see a film in comfort at one of Karachi’s modern air-conditioned cinemas, before making the journey back to the ship
To many, Karachi just did not merit the long journey from the ship while others found it to be the birthplace of new friendships. One thing is certain, as an important part of a young nation, Karachi is facing a hard job and she is doing it well.
R. A. S. F.
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